From Grape to Glass: The Art of Raki Distillation in Crete
If you ever travel through the Cretan countryside in late autumn, you might notice the scent of grapes and smoke in the air. Follow it, and you’ll find a small stone shed, laughter, music, and a copper still bubbling away. You’ve just discovered a rakokazano — the heart of Crete’s raki-making tradition.
Step 1: From Grapes to Grape Pomace (Strafylo)
The journey of raki begins with the grape harvest in early autumn. Once the grapes are pressed to make wine, the leftover skins, stems, and pulp — called strafyla or tsikouda — are collected instead of thrown away. This mixture still holds some juice and sugar, perfect for fermentation.
The strafyla are placed into sealed barrels or tanks and left to ferment naturally for about two to four weeks. During this time, the natural yeasts convert the remaining sugars into alcohol. The smell changes day by day — from fruity and sweet to something richer and slightly sour, signaling that it’s ready for distillation.

Step 2: The Copper Still — “Kazani”
The star of the process is the kazani, a traditional copper still consisting of three main parts:
Each kazani is fired by wood, and the heating must be steady and controlled — too hot, and the raki will taste harsh; too cool, and it won’t distill properly.


Step 3: The First Drops
As the mixture heats up, alcohol vapors rise, travel through the pipe, and condense in the coil. The initial stage of distillation produces what is locally known as protoraki (foreshots or heads). This early distillate is noticeably stronger than the rest of the batch and carries a distinctive, intense aroma. The producer continues the distillation process without separation, carefully monitoring the overall strength of the resulting spirit. This strength is measured in alcohol by volume (ABV), locally referred to as grada (degrees), using a specialized alcoholometer. The process continues until the collected spirit reaches the desired final strength, typically stabilizing around 40-45% ABV for the final product.

Step 4: The Celebration — Rakokazano Nights
But no kazani is ever a quiet affair. The distillation lasts for several hours, and during that time, the shed or courtyard fills with people — family, friends, and often curious visitors.
There’s grilled meat, fresh bread, cheese, olives, and of course raki. Someone always brings a lyra or a laouto, and before long, people are singing and dancing.
These gatherings, called rakokazana, can last late into the night. Each time a new batch flows from the still, everyone raises a glass and toasts to health, family, and friendship. It’s not just about making alcohol — it’s about community, gratitude, and joy.

Step 5: The Final Spirit
Once the distillation is done, the fresh raki or ¨tsikoudia¨ as the locals call it, is left to rest for a few weeks. This helps it mellow and develop a smoother flavor. Some people infuse it with honey and spices to make rakomelo, a sweet, warming version enjoyed in winter.
When and Where to Experience It
Raki distillation season usually runs from late October through December. It’s most common in rural areas — in villages around Chania, Apokoronas, Rethymno, and Heraklion. Some local producers open their kazania to visitors, offering tastings and tours.
If you visit during this time, just ask a local if there’s a kazani nearby. Chances are, they’ll invite you to join — because in Crete, raki isn’t just a drink. It’s a way to say welcome.
A Toast to Cretan Life
Watching the raki drip slowly from the copper coil, surrounded by laughter and the smell of firewood, you realize it’s more than a tradition — it’s the soul of Crete itself. A spirit born from the land, the vines, and the people’s generosity.
Yamas! (Cheers!)
We want to express our gratitude to Nikos Kiminoulakis, owner of the local rakokazano, for walking us through the fascinating process of making tsikoudia.
Source: https://seabybus.com